Creating Culinary Creatives

Maggie Rose thought her friends were nuts to suggest she go to school and get a degree in culinary arts.

“Who goes to college just for cooking?” she remembers thinking. “Everyone knows how to do some cooking.”

But Rose – who has always loved to cook - discovered that a degree means much more then tossing pasta, and apparently so have hundreds of other students at area colleges interested in everything food connected.

Thanks to TV’s Food Network, celebrity chefs and local wine-and-dine events, culinary and hospitality-related courses and students have been increasing every year.

From baking and pastry classes to gastronomic tourism courses and club management, area colleges offer everything a budding cook, restaurant owner or caterer needs to learn.

According to a recent survey conducted by Dianna Stampfler, owner of Promote Michigan, eight Michigan colleges and universities have seen almost yearly increases in hospitality enrollment numbers, much of it in culinary-related study.

“When we grew up, chefs were behind the scene, and in the last 10 years that has changed dramatically,” says Randy Sahajdack, program director of Grand Rapids Community College’s Secchia Institute for Culinary Education. “Now there’s a new acceptance of the position and much more public (recognition). The Food Network almost has created rock stars and a celebrity existence.”

At GRCC, enrollment has more than doubled in the last seven years and is at capacity with 560 students participating in the Institute’s 40 culinary classes. Originally formed as the hospitality education department in 1980, the school has associate degrees in culinary arts for those who hope to don a chef’s coat, or in culinary management, where the goal could be to own a restaurant. There’s also a certificate for a one-year course in baking and pastry.

Some students participate in all three programs.

About 40 percent of culinary students are older, returning learners excited about what they’ve seen on TV or read in fancy cooking books.

“But it’s not all about an amazing wedding cake or a great sugar sculpture,” Sahajdack says. “It’s not as sexy as some celebrities or the media portrays and 90 percent of (the work) is more about peeling pounds of onions.”

He says a newer “and exploding” career path is that of a personal chef, who has several clients and prepares weekly meals for a busy family. The other is a private chef, who is dedicated to the meal preparation for one client.

“We place a lot of students in private chef arrangements, and they might even be a live-in for the home,” he adds.

Locally trained, globally recognized
One of about 600 culinary programs in the country, GRCC’s Institute is accredited by the American Culinary Federation and considered one of the best for the quality of its faculty, facilities and program courses. It holds the honor of being one of only 19 programs nationwide considered exemplary by the federation. (Editor's aside: In some kitchens, only a graduate of an ACF program has the right to the title of "Chef." This is partially accurate. Although the industry generally allows the title to any culinary artist, only "Certified Chefs" are recognized by the U.S. Department of Labor as trade professionals, the rest are cooks.)

Rose, 21, will graduate in May from with an associate’s degree in culinary management. But she doesn’t want to stop there. In the fall it’s off to Ferris State University to earn a bachelor’s degree in hospitality management.

Rose cautions that there is a lot of hard work “and bad hours” required to achieve any glory in the culinary arts. “This is not just an easy way out to earn a degree and you have to realize there’s a lot more to this than just cooking,” she adds. “But if you work hard and you’re good at what you do, you can make money.”

In the meantime, Rose has been representing GRCC in cooking competitions and will next week leave with fellow culinary student, Sasha Ahmed, to compete against other colleges in the ScotHop International Culinary Competition in Scotland.

“I’m nervous but also very excited at the same time,” Rose says. “I may go back to Scotland this summer as an intern because I want to experience other cities and countries and concentrate on their restaurants.”

Sahajdack says the Institute has always sought to maintain an international presence to keep the school relevant and authentic in different cuisine. Students frequently have internships on foreign soil and classes travel to other countries to learn and participate in different techniques.

Locally, part of a student’s training includes hands-on work in the Institute’s Heritage Restaurant, at 151 Fountain St. NE in the Applied Technology Center, where the public can experience “incredible service and beautiful, tasty food,” at very reasonable prices, says Stampfler, who recently paid a mere $8.95 for a duck entrée.

A growth industry
At Grand Valley State University, the hospitality and tourism management department includes courses in the culinary arts. The program has 583 declared majors in the program, a steady yearly increase since 2001.

“When the hospitality program began 31 years ago, we had three full time faculty members and now we have 10,” says Robert Robins, a visiting instructor, with 30 years experience in the industry and several stints as an executive chef for high-end West Michigan restaurants and clubs.

“A new wing has been added for this department and we’re looking for two more faculty members,” he adds. “I have waiting lists for my key classes. The numbers and interest is obviously there.”

GVSU utilizes its The Meadows (golf course) clubroom, where during the off season students learn private club management techniques, as well as food preparation. While not training to be chefs, they have hands-on classes in a functional working kitchen, as well as bar and dining service, sanitation and inventory control.

“This industry is growing so fast, and there’s a great demand for knowledgeable people as the boomers are moving on,” Robins says. “There’s a lot of opportunity and it’s not unrealistic to come in, get a four year degree and walk right into an upper management position.”

Some recent GRCC job placements include Katie Jo Bopp, who was hired by Costco to decorate cakes at the area's two local membership club stores. Erin Davis opened CoCo Charlotte Bakery and James Taylor just returned from the East Coast and is the new chef for Judson's and Gill's, both at the B.O.B. Restaurant Bloom at 40 Monroe Center is owned and operated by culinary school alum.

A recent graduate of Grand Valley's program, "walked right into a job at Central Michigan University," Robins says. "Our program has one of the highest employment rates in the college."



A veteran journalist formerly of The Grand Rapids Press, Mary Radigan is now a freelance writer based in Grand Rapids. She last wrote for Rapid Growth about the revitilization of the Heartside neighborhood.

Photos:

Ravioli prepared by Maggie Rose

Student Maggie Rose

Chef Angus Campbell

Chef Campbell and Maggie Rose

A large kitchen classroom at GRCC

Photographs by Brian Kelly - All Rights Reserved

Brian Kelly is a commercial photographer and filmmaker. He is Rapid Growth's managing photographer. You can follow his photography adventures here on his blog.
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